Credit Repair After Getting ‘Hooked Up’ Helps Detroit’s Calvin M. Get Exactly What He Always Wanted But Couldn’t Have.
Calvin desperately wanted a real cell phone, not a pay-per-go cell phone where they soaked him for $0.29 per minute. This is the pitiful truth about bad credit.
Bad credit means higher rates and rejection!
In Calvin’s case, he simply wanted a real cell phone. He didn’t care about some credit score. He didn’t care about memorizing the FCRA or the FDCPA. He wasn’t looking to buy a house.
He just wanted a damn cell phone from one of the big-name wireless providers–and he was sick and tired of getting rejected.
That’s where I come in. Calvin asked for help. I helped him, and to his amazement (and appreciation) he was approved for the exact phone and plan he wanted. DONE!
And he couldn’t believe just how easy it was…after all that frustration and anger.
Now, it’s your turn! What is one credit-related question you’d like to ask me.
Bad Credit Credit Cards?
Adding Good Credit?
Collections?
Bankruptcy reported inaccurately?
Avoiding Foreclosure?
Judgment hanging on while you’re trying to buy a home?
Tons of inquiries?
Identity Theft?
Budgeting?
Work At Home Scams?
“The Secret”?
Credit Repair Companies?
Lease option | rent to own Florida | lease purchase?
Buying a home?
Mortgage financing?
…something else?
Use the form below to ask your question:
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{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
We have been in Bankruptcy for about 3 years and it looks like we will be losing our house within the next 2 months, will these credit cures help us?? Would we still be able to do a rent to own, if possible it seems as that would be our only option to get into another house.
Thank You,
Sten Nelson
Hi Sten!
A rent-to-own opportunity will work for you. Lots of opportunities for RTO exist today from sellers with houses they can’t sell by no fault of their own. The key is to prove to a seller you can afford the monthly payment and down payment and that you will take care of the place. You also need to find out from an experienced mortgage professional how much time you’ll need before you can get a mortgage. Be aware, Sten, you absolutely must begin re-building your credit as soon as possible while confirming (once your BK is discharged) that all accounts discharged are reported accurately.
You need to check out my latest report, “8 Secrets To A 680!”
Hope this helps you,
Mike
P.S. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Hi Mike,
I got #2 of your Credit Repair kit and as the first it sounds awe some, with one problem. The link in the Email doesn’t work, when I click on http://budurl.com/scorebooster2 I get a message that the page cannot be found. For all I know it may have something to do with my Computer. Is there any way we can find out?? All other links that I click on from here work fine. I also noticed your Ebook, does that have other info?? If it is half as good as the Info that you’ve sent me so for and the low cost it has to be worth it Thanks again for all your help.
I’m glad to have finally found a person that cares about the financial hardships of other people
Be Well
Sten
I’m sorry for the link errors, Sten. I have put together a new CD titled “8 Secrets To A 680 Credit Score!” and the web guy is changing a bunch of links. He tells me he’s moving as fast as he can. Thank you very much for the kind words. I’m glad to hear you’re pleased with the help I’m offering. By now you can see how much I care about helping people avoid or get out of the pain I experienced when my identity was stolen and I got hit with a bad case of “bad credit.”
Again, thank you, Sten.
Mike
Dear Mike,
please resend number 2 I was interrupted and did not read whole thing
Thanks Vickie
Hi Vickie! I’ve sent you an email with secret #2. Sorry for the error. I’ve changed the links. I have taken 8 powerful secrets and created a CD + detailed report + mp3 called “8 Secrets To A 680!”
Thanks, Vickie!
How can I raise my scores to get approved for a mortgage?
Luz, before I answer your question, I’d need to know what’s on your credit reports. Instead of just telling you to get find a trusted, experienced mortgage professional and a 620 & 3.5% down, I’d need to know your situation.
1. Do you have any judgments on your reports? If so, judgments must be resolved before a mortgage lender will consider your application.
2. What “bad” credit do you have in the last 24 months?
3. How many “seasoned tradelines” (that is, open accounts in good standing) do you have showing on your reports?
Begin with my newest free CD titled “8 Secrets To A 680 Credit Score!” Please let me know if you have any specific questions.
Thanks for writing,
Mike
Good Evening Mike,
1. I have a situation where a collection has been placed on my report for a debt that has been paid “on” directly to the original creditor (AT&T) , but not reported by the original creditor. I called this collection agency, before I had read your material, and asked would they remove the item if I paid it. The person I spoke to said “no, it would remain for 7 years ” (I forgot who I spoke to — again I had not read any of your postings yet — didn’t take good notes about the call). I told them fine, that’s not doing me any good, I’ll pay the original creditor directly. What is a suggestion I might follow to resolve this issue and have this item totally removed? The collection agency listed the first date of delinquency as 6/2009. I verbally disputed the amount fo the charges with AT&T when they first stacked up…don’t quite understand their billing sometimes…that was a no win situation and it way too late now; I dropped them again as a service provider back near the beginning of the year. If a person does not pay perfectly on time and full amounts when you bundled services are purchase from AT&T, he/she will get rolled over by a billing steam roller…those things always seem to cost more than advertised some kind of a way.
2. I have a credit card account that has been paid on time consistently for the past 44 months. I had a late payment in 2006 out of ignorance, and one late payment in 2003, and one in 2004. What is a suggestion I might use to have the creditor remove the late payments before the time they said the account will change to a positive status (in 2012)? The account is listed as “Pays As Agrees” but, it yet shows up in the negative section of my reports. Yes, the balance to available balance ratio is high as well.
3. Somewhere I read about companies who serve AU accounts. Any info? 50 or 60 points would put me in a good position.
Thanks
Hi Tony,
1. Debt collectors commonly say they will not negotiate and some do not negotiate. Once again, you need to look at every account strategically. You said you’ve paid “on” this AT&T debt…. Let me understand: you went delinquent on AT&T and AT&T assigned the debt to collections. Am I correct? You then began paying the Original Creditor. Is this correct? I’m a bit confused by the timeline on this account.
When did this AT&T go delinquent? That is, what month and year?
How much is the outstanding balance (with all their fees)?
Who is the debt collector (inside collections or outside collections)?
Have you signed anything with collections or original creditor about a payment plan, etc after you went delinquent?
In my mind, Tony, there is NO perfect phone provider. We choose one and put up with its shortcomings, knowing the grass isn’t greener on the other side. Whether it’s funky billing, rate plans, no rollover minutes, overage charges, text charges, etc, ALL of them know how to squeeze money out of us.
I’ve chosen Sprint and I know how to work WITH Sprint’s executives to get FAIRNESS. I don’t spend much time trying to resolve issues with frontline CS–they’re trained to get you off the phone with no resolution.
2. Those late pays more than 2 years old are not causing harm to your credit scores. You’re not delinquent, right? If debt collectors are not chasing you on this one, DISPUTE each late individually. INDIVIDUALLY. Do not dispute all three in the same letter. Hand write your dispute letters. You are disputing the LATE PAY notation, not the entire account. You have months of on-time bill pay. You have 3 lates showing that are inaccurately reported or NOT verifiable.
3. Yes, there is at least one legitimate company providing help with AU accounts. Obviously, you know how valuable this strategy is, Tony, but let me say that I strongly recommend you follow my suggestions. Even at $500-$1,000 I believe AUs have special value. However, I prefer FREE as I explain.
Many people (not you, Tony) mistakenly believe bad credit is not costing them a dime. They’re lying to themselves or they honestly do not know how badly bad credit is hammering them…and not just in the wallet either.
By now, everyone reading anything I’ve written (hopefully) understands the impact of low credit scores…and how expensive bad credit really is. For instance, (IF) they get credit for a car or home, they’re overpaying. (IF) they get a cell phone, they’re overpaying. (IF) they rent a home, they’re overpaying. In property management, I was forced to require MORE security (some non-refundable) PLUS first and last. In many cases, people wanting to rent (who willingly agreed to pay the extra) could not get the utilities turned on. It wasn’t the outrageous security the service provider usually demands. Credit scores were too low to get service EVEN with outrageous security deposits.
Of course, all insurance is tied to credit scores. And now more and more people know of employers pulling credit before hiring or promoting. Is all this “fair”? It doesn’t matter what any of us think. It’s what is happening. That 3-digit score is becoming more and more important, whether or not we like it. I might be more qualified to do the job, but the other guy with better credit will beat me out for the job.
I hear this all the time from people shocked to hear about employers using credit to hire.
Soooooooo, my point for making this long rant is that bad credit is damn expensive, whether or not people want to admit it. Still, I hear from people overpaying because of bad credit tell me that the worst cut of all came when one of their children needed them to co-sign for something and they couldn’t help. When it comes to our children, I can understand.
Not long ago, I talked with a lady whose college-aged daughter asked her to co-sign for her on her first apartment off campus. On the phone, this mother cried when she told me how bad she felt when she couldn’t help her daughter who never had asked her for anything.
One thing I’ll never forget is the sleepless nights…the worrying…the anger…and headaches resulting from my bad credit experience. I couldn’t put a $$ amount on the cost of bad credit when it came to my health and sanity, but the memories still haunt me.
Sorry to go way off topic, Tony, but we get many people hitting my blog for the first time and they don’t know any of this. Thanks for indulging me as I jumped into a side topic.
Hope this helps you,
Mike
A guy named Tony emailed the following response to his “challenge” with AT&T (see above).
I’m sorry, Tony, but I still don’t understand the facts. Do you owe this $348.00 fee? Do you understand how you owe (if correct) $348.00?
Are you in Louisiana where this debt collector is located? By the way, “verbal” disputes count for nothing.
If this debt is yours but you don’t know how you incurred the debt, here’s the question you must answer: Do you morally need to settle?
Chances are, you won’t be sued over $348.00. The law firm doing collections often scares people into paying more than just a simple debt collector barely speaking English & operating out of a boiler room in New York City.
Also, do you NEED to settle? Do you need credit forcing you to settle this one?
If so, write a CERTIFIED letter to the CEO and send the same letter (Cc:ed) regular mail to all other executives, asking for their help resolving a billing issue the billing department cannot resolve. If you still were an AT&T customer, that would help you. If I were taking on this challenge, I’d have to confirm some details, as I’m unclear about a couple items (perhaps crucial items).
You see, strategy is absolutely REQUIRED for every credit account. Too many people think credit repair is all about blindly firing off letters. Blindly firing off letters gets people sued.
My “guess” is that you’re not receiving much attention from the debt collector over $348.00. Confirm this debt on all your credit reports. Who’s reporting it? How is it reported by EACH bureau? Anything different from report to report? If you get to the point you need to settle or dispute, contact me.
Tony’s email below:
Good Evening Mike,
1. I was an AT&T customer until the end of March this year. I had a balance when I left, but paid on it here and there while I paid another bill, which AT&T separated from my house bill for over zealous cell phone use by one of my teen aged children. Needless to say, they were placed on prepaid for a while with the responsibility of earning their own funds for that prepaid account; they became a little more
disciplined with cell use. AT&T didn’t offer reasonable Unlimited cell
phone plans at that time. I recently completed paying that $600.00 plus bill and it does not appear on my major bureau reports. Then, I got hit with the collection I have been referring to. So, I presume, the 180 days of that balance shall have not passed until next week.
However, it is being reported as if it became delinquent in June.
2. The current outstanding balance of the alleged debt is $348.00. I am tarrying to see how I should proceed with resolving the issue.
3. The debt collector is: GREGORY J. BARRO, PLC
ATTORNEY AT LAW & ASSOCIATES
400 TRAVIS STREET, SUITE 1004
SHREVENPORT, LOUISANA 71101
(318) 221-6000
(800) 582-0965
FAX (318) 222-5493
4. I have not signed anything with collections or original creditor about a payment plan.